Evidence of Cliff Side Potato Growing In East Devon
My Previous Articles On Branscombe Potatoes, East Devon Cliff Side Plat Gardens & Their Donkeys Are Linked Here, But Were Donkeys Essential?
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The history of the Plats Farms & Gardens are well known in my part of Devon. Our at least that is the story, but is there more to be learnt? Certainly there are photos of the last plat farmers with their donkeys carrying produce along the narrow cliffside paths available. But before photography we have to rely on a oral history or contemporary diaries. In this article I delve into diaries that were written in the1800s by polymath Peter Orlando Hutchinson. And some of what I discover is contrary to what I had been previously led to believe.
Many Sidmouthians will have heard of Peter Orlando Hutchinson, but few will have read his diaries. Spanning over 50 years, these diaries offer a fascinating glimpse into the reflections and recollections of a man who was not only a diarist but also a historian, artist, stonecarver, and polymath. Through his writings, we can follow his wanderings around East Devon and gain insight into his thoughts on the people, farming, geology, archaeology, and botany of the area.
New York To East Devon
The story in his dairies begins on February 1st, 1838, at 11 a.m., as Hutchinson sets sail from New York, bound for England. The “Skipper” had promised they would reach England in 18 days, but the journey took a full 28 days before they finally caught sight of Dover Castle. While this voyage is intriguing, my focus lies closer to home. I’ve delved into Hutchinson’s archives, searching for references to local horticulture and wildlife. Specifically, I was curious to see if he mentioned Branscombe Potatoes or the Plats between Sidmouth and Branscombe. Interestingly, he doesn’t use those exact names, but he does refer to the cultivation of potatoes on cliff sides and cliff tops from Salcombe Hill to Branscombe.
Cliff Top Potatoes Not Cliff Side Potato Growing
One particularly vivid reference stands out. Here’s an excerpt from his diary entry on Tuesday, June 15, 1858 (with my emphasis in bold):
Took a walk with Mr. Mayson, where I went along on May the 29th up Salcombe Hill, and the undercliff, among the potatoe grounds, emerging at the further side, and returning over the top of the hill. I don’t know when I have felt it so warm. The sun was bright, and falling full upon the sloping surface of the undercliff; the white foxmould banks, against which we were obliged to cling, reflected the heat; and to this we added the exertion of scrambling up and down difficult places. A man who was hoeing potatoes, told me he paid Mr. Cornish £1 an acre for some land he rented there; and he thought it was high, considering the difficulty of access, the necessity of spade labour, and the trouble of carrying the seaweed on his back, with which he manured his plots of ground, all the way from the sea beach up to that elevated position. We hurried on, and got down the hill to Sidmouth, just before the bursting of a thunder storm. Had a quiet tea with Mrs. Mayson.
Foxmould is geological term and refers to glauconitic sands with beds of sandy limestone. They are often grey brown but at Golden Cap in nearby Dorset give the geology a golden brown colour after which the area is named.
The passage above paints a vivid picture of the challenges faced by those who cultivated potatoes on the steep, sun-baked cliffs. It’s a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of local farmers, who carried seaweed from the beach to provide nutrients for their plots, all while navigating difficult terrain.
The interesting point here however is that it is common accepted locally that the past farmers all used donkeys to take the seaweed from the beach to their plats high on the cliff sides. Here however is evidence of a many carrying it on his back! Perhaps only the better off plat farmer could afford a donkey or two.
The other “donkey fact” I have always been told was that donkey and man power was all that was available on the steep sided plats. I disproved that a few years ago in an article where I evidenced the use of machinery that was clearly powered by internal combustion engines. These were yet to be invented in Hutchinson’s day but at least one latter day plat farmer used an ICE powered machine. My evidence was discovery of rusty old machinery, overgrown with brambles, at Weston Plat.
For those interested in exploring Hutchinson’s diaries further, the East Devon AONB website offers a searchable transcript. To find specific words or phrases, use Control+F on a Mac or Home > Find on Windows. You can access the full transcript here: Peter Orlando Hutchinson Diary Transcripts.
Hutchinson’s diaries are a treasure trove of local history, offering a unique perspective on the landscape, people, and practices of East Devon in the 19th century. Whether you’re interested in horticulture, people, history, geology, or simply the daily life of a remarkable individual, his writings are well worth exploring.
