New Gardeners Tend To Make the Same Dozen Or So Gardening Mistakes, And Some Established Gardeners Make The same Ones. Here’s The Top Gardening Mistakes & How To Avoid Them
We all make mistakes in life, and that is also true in the garden. Most mistakes don’t matter that much, all it means is that our plants don’t grow and we have to start again. It’s frustrating but there’s no real harm. We can learn from it and not make the same gardening mistakes again.
And I’ll let you into a secret. I frequently make mistakes in my garden. In a sense, it’s understandable as the garden is a dynamic environment. Things keep changing. From the rain and temperature to the type of plants we grow, change is inevitable. But armed with a bit of common sense AND a few tips on how to make the best of our garden we can avoid most mistakes and have a fertile, healthy garden that grows beautiful flowers and tasty crops.
1. Destroying Soil Structure
I’m going to start with the most serious gardening mistake I ever see. It’s the one that tends to persist for years if it’s made so the one you really must avoid at all costs.
The good news is that it’s not difficult to avoid this mistake.
The soil is s living entity.
I don’t mean it’s like a cat or dog. It’s not a single living entity. In fact, the soil is mainly made up of inorganic material that is derived from rocks. The rocks break down to form sand, silt, clay and other soil particles. But between these particles are millions of living organisms. The largest are things like rabbits, foxes and badgers that dig holes in the soil and live in it. Then there are moles and mice and earthworms and a host of other smaller living animals and organisms.
The very smallest organisms are the soil bacteria, fungi and viruses. They make up the soil microorganisms and are vital to the plants that grow in the soil.
Soil Spaces, Air and Moisture
For everything to survive in the soil the gaps between the soil particles have to be able to sustain life. The soil particles tend to hold on to moisture and make it available to the plants and other organisms. And between the soil particles, there are gaps that are filled with air. This air contains the oxygen that most plants must have to survive. Very few organisms survive without air. Those that do are called anaerobes and tend to cause the soil to go sour. Those that need air are called aerobes.
When it rains the water runs into the soil, forces the majority of air out and then drains away. If it doesn’t the soil is waterlogged and few plants survive these conditions for more than a few days. The exceptions are aquatic and marsh plants.
As the water drains in our soils the air is drawn into the soil spaces and this helps replenish the air in the soil.
When we have a good mix of soil particles and organic life in the soil we tend to have a good soil structure that contains enough air spaces, nutrients and moisture.
Poor Soil Structure
Poor soil structure in the garden is most commonly caused by either removal of the topsoil or damage to it by compaction, especially in wet weather.
Too frequently builders and developers remove the topsoil from building plots. This leaves the relatively infertile subsoil exposed. It rarely has good soil structure, especially if it has had heavy machinery on it.
Soil compaction is the second most likely cause of poor soil structure and, as indicated above, can be present in addition to topsoil removal. However, even where the topsoil hasn’t been removed, poor soil structure is possible.
In most cases, poor topsoil structure is the result of smearing or compressing the soil with heavy machinery OR our boots. Just walking on the soil when it is wet can cause a lot of damage. In both cases pour bots or machinery compresses the soil and squeezes the particles together, destroying the air spaces. This excludes the air and prevents water from penetrating the soil.
The above image was taken on a building site and is an example of how bad it gets. Despite the fact that a hedge and beds had been planted in the area due to be grassed was repeatedly walked in during very wet weather. The result is a muddy mess with large puddles and no soil structure. This area was due to be lawned a few days after the photo was taken. I’ve no doubt that if the grass is laid it will not thrive, indeed it might quickly die.
How To Improve Soil Structure
Firstly don’t compact it. That means no rotavators or feet on the soil when it’s too wet. If you need to harvest crops when it’s wet work from a path or put boards on the soil. Making temporary paths from old scaffolding boards or similar spreads the weight and prevents a lot of damage.
Grow deep-rooting plants, and/or those with fibrous roots, to try to open up the structure. These can be as break crops or as main crops depending on your situation. For example, potatoes are sometimes used to break up poor soil. But if you do this don’t expect such large yields as you’d get in soils with good soil structure.
Add compost to the soil. Ideally as a top dressing and let the worms pull it down. It’ll take time but will eventually improve the soil. If you can adopt a No-Dig regime so much the better.
Have patience. It takes time to rebuild the soil structure. And by that, I mean years, not weeks!
2. Sowing & Planting Too Early
To every thing (crop) there is a season!
OK, so I’ve slightly misquoted this text. But its largely true. For every crop here is a time. An optimum time when you should sow, plant and harvest. Get it right and you’ll be rewarded with abundant crops. Get it wrong and your crops will suffer from all sorts of problems.
I’m a bit blase about many of the planting and sowing dates because I’ve spent a lifetime learning the rules, where they can be bent and when I can break them. But for most of us, we need to keep to the rules. And that is especially true of sowing and planting dates.
Different crops can be planted at different times of the year. There is no time of year when we are compelled to start our planting year, though many people start in the spring. I’m writing this at the end of December. It was the winter solstice a few days ago and technically the days ate getting longer. Though, of course, it’s hard to see the extra daylight each day as its just minutes a day at present and a cloudy day hides it on som many days. But give it a few months and things will start to look better and the plants will begin to notice.
Some plants can be sown in my area now (late December), peas and broad beans are good examples as they are very hardy and will tolerate cold weather. They aren’t so keen on waterlogged soil though, so if yours is waterlogged then don’t sow them in the soil. Your choices are to leave the sowing for now OR to sow in pots or modules ready to plant put later. The third alternative is to grow them in containers from start to finish.
The main thing is not to try to dig or work very wet soil. It will give you the soil structure problems I discuss above.
And just because I said Broad Beans can be sown now that isn’t true of fine beans, Borlotti beans, runner beans and most other sorts of beans. Most beans need much more warmth than broad beans. Sow the others now and they’ll die unless you grow them in a heated greenhouse .. and even if you do, your problems have only just started.
Plants generally need heat and light to grow well. Indeed some also need cold and poor light to “vernalise” them. For example, rhubarb needs a period of cold in winter to stimulate good growth in the spring and summer. And plants without any light, or very poor light, suffer as well. Give seedlings poor light and they etiolate, i.e. become drawn or leggy. That’s not a great way for a seedling to start life.
But we can turn poor light to advantage. Cover your rhubarb with an upturned bin and it will etiolate the stems ready for an early harvest. Commercial rhubarb growers in the Rhubarb Triangle have exploited this for years and still produce the earliest forced rhubarb in the UK. You can try it as well.
Each month I publish a page about what to sow that month. It’s based on my location in South Devon, just a mile from the sea. Generally speaking, if you live further north, or at a higher altitude, the dates will need adjusting for your location. Your sowing dates will be later than mine .. but you’ll be forewarned in time to act. The reverse is true if you live in a milder part of the country to me. Keep an eye on local experienced gardeners in your area, they’ll know how your local microclimate affects dates.
Sowing dates are given on seed packets. Of course, they are not specific and the seed companies don’t know where you live and what your local conditions are like. So they are only a rough guide.
The thing is with seeds that a slightly later sowing will often catch up one that’s too early. The early one tends to have seedlings sitting in cold wet soils that makes them slow to grow away. Whilst the later sowings romp away much quicker. That also means that if you start seeds in modules or seed trays you can get the advantage of earlier sowings with planting them out when conditions are ideal. That way you get the full benefit of the earlier sowings.
Another tip is to warm the soil up a bit before sowing. A cloche or sheet of plastic over the soil for a week or two before you want to sow both keeps the worse of the rain off and warms the soil. Just don’t overdo it by sheeting down the plot too early so that the soil is bereft of rain and too dry. It’s no good starting early only to find you enter a drought when everyone else still has moist soils.
Keep an eye out for my next What to sow this month articles. They’ll forewarn you of what to sow next.
More Gardening Mistakes
Over the next few weeks, I’m going to be adding a dozen or more Gardening Mistakes I see every day. Keep watching to learn more.
For more information on the terminology used here, see our Gardening Dictionary